VinDivine

Capri

Capri is a small island off the coast of Naples that you get to by a 40 minute hydrofoil ride. Some naysayers say it’s overrun with tourists and expensive shopping. We say SO WHAT? If you can get off the beaten path enough to enjoy the beauty, the tourists (after all we were tourists) aren’t bad, plus they all leave around 5pm so it’s great. We first came here in 1996 or so, and this is our third visit.

We love this island, especially the Capri side. Anacapri is on the other side of the island, each is a small town on it’s own mountain, Anacapri being on the higher side. Il Faraglione is made up of 3 enormous rocks coming up out of the sea right off the coast of Capri, it’s truly an amazing scene.

There are no cars allowed in Capri, a maze of narrow walled streets, that only golf cart size vehicles called Apes can make it up and down

OK, shopping. You want it you GOT it. D&G, LV, Gucci, Yves, Fendi, Prada, Pucci, Moschino, and a smattering of local boutiques. Need we say more?

Food

The food, the food. This is where the caprese salad was born people.  And the margarita pizzas are to die for. OK pizza from Napoli, but let’s not split hairs. So lunch time, that’s what you eat, and get the white wine, any white wine here is great. GO DIRECTLY TO AURORA, a small restaurant on Via Botteghe, it’s the BEST pizza on the island, as told by us as well as the locals. Get the thin crust, it’s to die for.

For dinner, you MUST try Edode, it’s right on Via Camerelle. We hit this place twice in the 5 nights we were here. Caprese Ravioli, Linguine in Clam Sauce, fresh Red Snapper and Beef Carpaccio (skip the carpaccio, it’s highway robbery and not that good). Not too many cows roaming around here. Nice wine list as well, we had a great Gaja Sauvignon Blanc. They make a killer Cosmo too, if you want to get your buzz on. These guys serve late. Ask for Pietro, a young funny funny man. He loves life.

Walk up the street to the Hotel Quisisana, one of the nicest hotels on the island, owned by the Morgano family, (we said hi to Mr. Morgano on the way to our hotel) who also owns the Casa Morgano (where we’re staying), and the Scalinatella, all 5 star hotels.

The bar scene at the Quisi is insane after 7pm. It’s an outdoor patio with a fantastic piano player, (read: Casablanca) and the crowd runs from glitterati to drag queens. If you’re going to order a Belvedere Cosmo, be prepared to spend $22 each. If it hurts, go SKYY…consider yourself warned. Oh and the Piazza is overrun with tourists but hell it’s also overrun by Italians so go ahead and grab a drink and do some great people watching. You also might befriend a Fido, there’s several cute con artist mutts running around looking for hand-outs.

Everyone here is DONE UP, probably from the shopping they did between going to the pool and the beaches at Marina Piccola, a rocky beach worth going to if you can make it down and up about 250 stairs. The beaches here are rocky and rugged, just like the island. It would be a nice touch if they hauled in a few hundred tons of white sand, but we don’t think that’s gonna happen anytime soon;) So, Piccola is the main beach area, quite a few kids (‘nuff said), but a cool experience. Rent yourself a couple chaise lounges and an umbrella and stake your claim to one of the rock outcroppings.

Casa Morgano

The Casa Morgano is a traditional Italian place, antiques, white and blue painted tile is perched on a cliff overlooking the sea, but also the other half of the mountainous island. Get a “full sea view” room and you’ll see what we mean. Huge decks, and very cool ladies, two bathrooms, one with large Jacuzzi tub and the other (his), a shower.

The pool scene ain’t all that, good lunch, not a great view, small but nice. You’re better off having lunch on your deck and laying out on your own lawn chairs.

The service at the hotel is impeccable, breakfast arrives almost as soon as you call for it.

Perfect Day

A perfect day on Capri:

1. Sleep in, with the blackout awnings on most of the windows in Europe it’s easy.
2. Get up around 10 and eat fresh croissant and GREAT coffee while overlooking your gorgeous sea view.
3. Read a little (or in our case blog;-).
4. Go for a nice hike or jog around the island for a few hours (hills people, it’s ALL hills).
5. Grab lunch: pizza and pasta before 2 cuz a lot of places close after that.
6. Hit the beach, Marina Piccola is the best, or your deck for some prime sun.
7. Around 5ish, get ready to walk, and by that I mean SHOP.
8. Grab a drink at the Quisi Bar or on the Piazza on your way back to get ready for dinner.
9. Then hit a great spot for dinner.
10. Perfect day.

Recommended hotels:
Hotel Quissisana – great spa too
Scalinatella
Casa Morgano
Punta Tragara – A bit ‘old’ but located near the end of the road with great views of the Il Faraliogne and a Thallassotherapy pool.

aurora pizzeria, capri