Tony’s Pizza Napoletana - North Beach
+: Tony, Bruno & Noble are awesome, excellent pies of all styles
-: nothing really
OK, we’re back, and we’re on a pizza crusade, bitches! Tony Gemignani and Bruno DiFabio opened this pizza place on Friday, and it looks like they have what it takes to make a winner out of a great location that’s been cursed by past places like Lou’s at the Square and Le Felce. Hell, Tony won the 2007 WORLD PIZZA CUP! with his classic Margherita pie. And Bruno owns 6 pizza places on the east coast. Is this a killer duo, bitches? I think so.
Right on the corner of Union and Stockton smack dab in North Beach, Tony’s is a two-room joint. We bellied right up to the bar (doi, you know us right?!) like moths to a flame and grabbed a couple stools. We didn’t even know there was a main dining room until later. Anyhoo, the bar is cool. Old-time authentic mirrored wooden oak bar on the left hand side, and 5 booths running down the other. Kinda weird 'cuz the booths were all white marble and semi-chic black pleather. Sorta like Gunsmoke meets West Elm. But wait—once we saw that the main room was decked out all new in the same marble and black, we got it!
So first off, the people here are the coolest. No shit. Noble (ex-Bix) is the bar manager and treated us like old buds. When we asked about crust thickness he actually grabbed another couple’s pie from the other end of the bar and showed it to us, so we’d know exactly what we were in for. And, he introduced us to La Pinta. Know what that is, punk? It’s a liqueur made of one of the best Tequilas of all time—Clase Azul, and pomegranate juice. Tasty as is, or is a killer La Pinta Rita that he’ll happily mix for you. Tasty with a spicy pizza pie! And Tony & Bruno, the two owners, were fun, nice and treated us, and everyone it seems, like they’d known us for years. And still liked us;)
But now…on to the pies. They have all styles (Sicilian, Classic, NY Style, etc) about 25-30 in all and you’d wonder if they could pull it all off, if not for the fact that HE WON THE 2007 WORLD PIZZA CUP! ‘Nuff said. They have three different ovens—a gas brick, electric brick and a traditional 900-degree wood burning oven that was the same make and model he used when HE WON THE 2007 WORLD PIZZA CUP! Thought I'd mention that.
So what’d we get? If you have taken notes, you know that we feel the best way to gauge true talent is with the classic, minimal Thin Crust Margherita pie. And we didn’t waver. How was it, you beg? He uses the exact ingredients as his world cup winner, which includes a special type of flour that he doesn’t use for any of his other pies. San Felice flour, San Marzano tomatoes, sea salt, Mozzarella, basil and EVOO from Campania. The crust was very thin, blistered well on the bottom, had excellent Key Ingredient Distribution, a place where we feel Pizzeria Delfina lacks. So K.I.D. means, each of the 6 slices had great, equal amount of sauce, tender, gooey mozzarella, and basil. One thing – I would prefer a little more basil and maybe in larger raw leaf sizes. But as cool as these cats are I’m sure if ya ask, ya get. The crust got a little thick and slightly salty around the edge so that’s a little wasted space IMH (right, humble) O, but once again this is a pie in the traditional sense and who am I to argue with Tony? I mean, HE WON THE 2007 WORLD PIZZA CUP!
Quick side note: Tony only makes 73 of the Classic Margherita pies per day. Yes other places like UrbanDaddy and Thrillist may tell you that fact, but do they go all Wolf Blitzer and ask the hard questions and give you the reason why? ? Well, VdV roots out the whole story for you, so you can feel educated, not just informed;) Tony WON THE 2007 WORLD PIZZA CUP! on June 13. Figure it out yet?! Damn you are a brilliant bunch, aren’t you? Yes, the 73 comes from 6/13. As in 6+1 = 7 and put the 3 on the end = 73. That’s why. Lesson: Get there before he hits 73 for the day.
And here’s the even cooler part—we were talkin’ with Tony & Bruno about our pizza passion, about NY pies vs. west coast, etc., and about John’s Pizza in NYC. Tony got all animated and said “Wait here, I’ll be right back!” and in about 15 minutes brought us out one of his Original Tomato Pies, New York style. On the house! How cool was that, and he didn’t even know he was dealing with the people who could put him on the map, VinDivine! This pie is classic NYC. Crispy, slightly thicker crust than the Marg, with mozzarella on the bottom and the sauce on top. It gives the pie a smoky and slightly sweet quality, which along with the oregano and garlic the result is awesome. Janine actually liked this one betta than the Marg. I couldn't decide, I just snarfed every last bit of both of 'em.
And if you are a barfly type like us, make sure to at least poke your noggin in the main room. The wood-burner oven is front and center and you can watch Tony toss his crusts. You know what I mean. He’s an 8-time pizza-tossing champion and really gets into it.
We award Tony’s a solid 9 out of 10. And you know what bitches we are about pizza!
VdV Rating:
Food: 9
Service: 9.5
Vibe: 8
Overall: 9
Hours:
Wed-Sun 12p-10p (or “’til the party ends”)
Tony’s Pizza Napoletana
1570 Stockton St (@ Union)
San Francisco, CA
(415) 835.9888
No site yet, but check out his Pizza School: www.internationalschoolofpizza.com/



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